At the beginning of my wine tasting, I started with Bordeaux wine because
in general, Bordeaux wine is quite popular in H.K and it is very easy to find
in wine shop. In 1855 Bordeaux Médoc had a Grand Cru classification for red
wine,
classification is in 5 grades 1st to 5th
Growths and those selected Château would be called as Grand Cru Classés in French (For example, 1st
Growths is Premiers Crus
Classé
). Later, they also have a classification for
Saint-Émilion, Graves, etc. Base
on the Grand Cru classification, the pricing of 1st to 5th
Growths First Label (Grand Vin) wine are extremely high. However, Bordeaux
winemaker made second wine (Second Vin) for market need. Depend the Château, 3rd
label and even 4th label is available. The pricing of the 2nd
wine are 50-70% cheaper than the first label. The production of 2nd
wine is nearly similar to 1st label, but it aged in lower percentage of new barrels. The
grapes are from younger vines of the same vineyard compared to 1st
label and some of the Château has an independent vineyard for 2nd
wine. There are many reasons of making 2nd wine, some books said it
is to keep the Grand Vin quality so that youngest vines are used for 2nd
wine. For me, it can drink while the Grand Vin is aging or at a cheaper price
to taste the Grand Cru Classé wine. Sometime,
the 2nd wine may have little hints or characteristic of the Château wine but generally it is less complex, less structured and less powerful than Château wine.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2007 is the 2nd wine of Château La Mission Haut-Brion from
Pessac-Léognan, classified as Grand Cru in Graves
classification of 1953. It made from younger vines of same vineyards of Grand
Vin. From vintage 2006, “La Chapelle...”add the grapes of Château La Tour Haut
Brion vineyards to the blend. (Before Château La Tour Haut Brion is one of the Grand Cru in
Pessac-Léognan) The varieties are 64% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc and
maturing in oak 18-22 months in 20-25% of new barrels.
My
taste note: Deep purple with red on the rim and strong of cedar, blackcurrant
and wood aromas. The palate is medium to full body, dry and obvious tanning.
After taste has blackcurrant, plum come up and tannins become smooth. I found
this wine is quite structure and it is ready to drink (Tasted at April 2013). A
professional sommelier mentioned that this wine seem walk in into forest, I absolutely agree with this point.
當我開品嚐紅酒的時候, 我是從法國波爾多開始飲起. 因為波爾多的紅酒在香港比較有名氣,一般的葡萄酒商店都很容易買得到. 在1855年波爾多梅多克(Médoc)有一個列级酒庄的分類.
他們分為5個級別, 由1級到5級酒庄.
有份入選的酒庄到稱為列级酒庄,
法文會稱呼為 Grand Cru Classés (For example, 1級酒庄是Premiers
Crus
Classé).
後來其他波爾多地區
Saint-Émilion, Graves, 等等都有類似的列级酒庄分類. 基於這個列级酒庄分類, 所有1至5級酒庄 的正酒(Grand Vin)定價都相當高. 但是波爾多的製造商生產了副牌酒(Second Vin)提供給巿場需要. 有一些酒庄會有3牌酒甚至4牌酒提供. 定價方面, 副牌酒是比正牌酒便宜大約50-70%. 副牌酒的製作過程是跟正牌酒幾乎相似, 不過它用新橡木桶成熟比例就會比較少. 釀酒的葡萄都是用正牌酒同一個園內的相對年輕的葡萄樹．有一些酒庄會有一個獨立葡萄園供給副牌酒用. 從書本上知道釀造副牌酒有很多原因, 例如有些酒庄想提升他們的正牌酒的質素,
所以年輕的葡萄樹用來釀造副牌酒.我認為就是, 當正牌酒需要長時間熟成時,這段期間我可以一路飲副牌酒一路等或以相比便宜的價錢來賞試列级酒庄,有時副牌酒會有一些正牌酒的影子或特色.不過一般都會比正牌酒較少結構,較樸實和低勁力.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2007是 the 2nd wine of Château La Mission Haut-Brion 副牌酒,來自
Pessac-Léognan,從1953年Graves classification入選為列级酒庄. 釀造副牌酒的葡萄是來自正牌酒一樣的葡萄園, 不過是來自年輕的葡萄樹.從2006開始,
“La Chapelle...”加入Château La Tour
Haut Brion 葡萄園的葡萄一起調配(Château La
Tour Haut Brion之前是
Pessac-Léognan的一個列级酒庄). 葡萄品種包括64% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6%
Cabernet Franc. 在木桶成熟18-22個月, 用新木桶比例是20-25%.
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